Transcription Note: Paragraph breaks are at the point of the original Road Rider transcript as are punctuation and spelling of words.
Waking in Reno, Nevada, on a May day morning, the 21st of the Month, I found
snow falling thickly and the ground unfit for riding. Considering that I was
only about 250 miles on my journey from San Francisco, I heaved a sigh that was
almost a moan as I realized that I
was to meet delay so soon. I had slept in a hotel - a good one as hotels go in
this country - and, after a very satisfactory breakfast, I looked about for
something to beguile the time away. I was in hard luck because I do not gamble,
drink, smoke, or chew. The old time
picturesqueness of Reno has departed, but it is still a town of the West,
western, and a man of no habits is at a discount in it. There is plenty of
opportunity for drinking and gambling about, but for little else. I killed some
time profitably by overhauling my machine, and after dinner I concluded to get
under way.
It was a quarter past two in the afternoon when I left Reno and I had lost a
good eight hours of riding time. The snow had ceased falling, but the skies
were still overcast and the ground very wet as I set forth toward Wadsworth and
the great Nevada desert. For about 18 miles the road was fair, and then it
began to get sandy. Sand in Nevada means stuff in which you sink up to your
ankles every time you attempt to take a step. To further enliven matters it
began to rain. Every now and then I had to dismount and walk for a stretch of a
quarter of a mile. Several times the soft sand threw me because I did not
respect it enough to dismount in time. A bicycle with a six horsepower motor
could not get through such sand. The wheel just swings out from under, and the
faster you try to go the worse it is. Walking and riding. I managed, however,
to make the 36 miles from Reno to Wadsworth in four hours and there I pitched
camp for the night.
It is well to put in a word of warning and explanation right here: When mention
is made of the places at which I stopped and through which I passed it must not
be imagined that they are all cities, or towns, or villages, or hamlets, or
anything in the nature of civilized settlements. The majority of them are
nothing of the sort. They are just places - and it seems a waste of good English
to call them that. It is to be remembered that I started out determined to
follow the line of the Southern Pacific and Union Pacific railroads as far east
as Omaha, because it is the direct route. The road runs almost in a straight
line across the great alkali desert between the mountain summits. To have gone
around the desert, through the mountains to the north would have meant
traveling many hundreds of miles more, and I would of a certainty have been
lost many times, for there are nothing but trails to follow and often not any
visible trail.
If you take a map of the Union Pacific Railroad you will see the line of it
studded with names as closely as they can be printed. and if you have not
crossed the continent you will very naturally be deluded into thinking of them
as villages at least. These are the "places" through which I passed,
or, rather past which I rode, for I was riding right on the tracks most of the
way. They are localities arbitrarily created by the railroad. Many of them are
nothing more than names given by the railroad officials to designate a
sidetracking junction, and when you reach it all you see is the sidetrack and a
signpost put there by the
railroad; other places bearing names are mere telegraph stations, one eating
stations for passenger trains, while still others are what are known as
stations. These places all exist because of the railroad. It is to be
remembered that it is a single track road all the way from Omaha to San
Francisco, and therefore there is need of sidetracking at frequent intervals.
This means telegraph houses or sheds for the operators, and in order to issue
instructions definitely all places must be named. There are the section hands
and their foremen - they make a place for themselves and it gets a name and a
position on the map, even though there is only the house of the foreman and a
couple of others for the laborers, as is often the case.
The divisions are places where the freight and passenger trains change engines.
Quite often they are something of places, with from 200 to 5,000 population.
There, two or three hotels will be found, several saloons, and a couple of
stores. The stranger marvels to find a
community even of this size in such a God-forsaken country. He wonders why
anyone lives there, but if he is wise he does not ask any such question, for
even though the wildest days have passed, it is a hot-blooded country still,
where fingers are heavy and guns have hair
triggers. At the division settlements in the heart of these wildernesses there
is a great deal of home pride, and the traveler can get along best by praising
the place he is in and "knocking" the nearest neighboring settlement.
These settlements are supported partly by the money that is circulated by the
railroad employees, the passengers who stop for meals and the ranchmen who come
into the valley of the desert "to town" to get mail, ship goods and
have a good time. These division towns are the rendezvous of the polyglot
laborers on the railroad sections and the sportive cowboy alike, and as these
elements don't mix any more than oil and water, there are some "hot times
in the old town" occasionally. The reason why there is no more trouble
than there is "shooting up the town" is that wily sheriffs
"round up" the ranchmen when they strike town. Then it's a case of
"Now, boys, let
me have your guns we don't want any trouble, and I'll take care of your
shooters. Be reasonable ." The boys are reasonable and as the
sheriff treats all alike, they hand over their shooting irons and they are
tagged by the sheriff with the owner's name and kept by him till the spree is
over. Occasionally, though, the men get
to drinking and the fun begins
before the sheriff is aware there is a party in town.
Wadsworth is one of these division settlements and I took a snapshot of it that
gives a fair idea of the place. Like many railroad towns of the sort, it will
soon become only a memory, for the Southern Pacific shops there now are to be
removed to Reno and this will practically wipe out the town, which now has a
population of perhaps 3,000. It is ever thus with the settlements in this
region - here today and gone tomorrow. New places spring up in a week, and by
the time some traveler has seen them and described them some shift of railroad
interests has caused them be deserted villages and the next traveler cannot at
all rely on finding things as described by his predecessor.
At Wadsworth I found lodgings at a hotel patronized by railroad men, and got
some luscious strawberries for supper. I left Wadsworth at 7 o'clock on the
morning of May 22 and, leaving it, said farewell to the Truckee River, and what
few vestiges of trees and grass there were in this part of Nevada. Out of
Wadsworth I was facing the great desert, the plains of alkali that sifts down
from the mountains on each side, and which are barren of everything except
sagebrush. As I stand before mounting and gaze across that parched, dull-gray
waste of sand, alkali and rocks, with the spots of gray-green sagebrush, and
think of parting from the Truckee River, which seemed so trivial a water course
before, a pang of regret shoots through me. I know I shall miss the gurgling
stream, and there is a sinking of the spirits that cannot be overcome as I face
the leaden-hued skies and sands so unutterably dreary. Almost one can, in
fancy, see the sign of "leave hope behind all who venture here." This
is the Forty Mile Desert of Nevada that was so dreaded by the immigrants in the
days when the prairie schooner, the bronco, and the mule were the only
conveyances used by man to cross it. Many perished in this desert from want,
and many more from the attacks of the then hostile Indians. The old overland
trail is what I was following. It is what the railroad follows, and in many
places the rails have been laid directly over the old wagon tracks. At times
the old trail runs right alongside of the rails, and now and then it swings off
for a few hundred yards, a quarter or a half mile maybe, only to wind back
again to where the surveyors kept to a straight line for the railroad and
removed the rocks and sand dunes that the prairie schooners digressed to avoid.
I walked the first mile out of Wadsworth pushing the motor bicycle and pausing
every 10 feet to take breath. Then I took to the railroad. I bumped along
over the ties for 20 miles and then reached Massie, a telegraph station with a
water tank for the train and section hands. The water for these tanks is hauled
in water cars from Wadsworth. At
Wadsworth I had taken the precaution of adding a water bottle to my equipment,
and here I mixed it with good water. I had hardly got to riding again before I
got my first puncture of the trip, and it was a beauty. It was a hole into
which you could stick your finger. It was no
laughing matter at the time, yet there was something bizarre about the incident
that now causes me to smile, for that cut was made by a fragment of a beer
bottle. Imagine it if you please - I am in the middle of the Forty Mile Desert
with a wild waste of sand and sagebrush
bounding the horizon from every point of view, and, save the lonely telegraph
shanty, there is not a sign of human life about. So far as the outlook is
concerned, I and the telegraph operators are the sole inhabitants of a globe of
sand, and yet I get my tire cut by a piece of
beer bottle bearing a choice Milwaukee label. It rather adds to the grotesqueness
of the situation when I recall the appearance of the ground alongside the
railroad track in that unholy desert, where countless men and animals have
perished after being crazed by thirst.
All along the tracks the ground is strewn with beer bottles that have been
tossed from the car windows as the trains sped by. Now and then one of the
flying bottles struck a tie or a fellow waif and broke, but most of them landed
on the sand or brush and lie there intact. I could have gathered enough of
these unbroken glass beer flagons to have started a good sized bottling
establishment, and, in spite of the gloom caused by my puncture. I could not
help thinking what a veritable paradise this same deadly wilderness would be to
some city junkman. In this land of the Terrible Thirst an habitual beer drinker surely would be turned into a raving
lunatic by this sight.
It took the biggest plug I had, one with a mushroom two inches in diameter, to
fix that cut, and a yard of tire tape to bind it properly.
Fifteen miles from
Massie I passed a section gang's settlement called Upsal; 12 miles further I
passed the great metropolis known as
Brown's, consisting of one house and a signpost. All about there was the same
interminable landscape of sickish drab and dirt white sand and gray-green
sagebrush and I was steadily bumping over the railroad ties, now between the
rails and again on the outside of them,
according to the depth and levelness of the sand. So far as signs of life other
than my own were concerned I might have been a pre-Adamite soul wandering in
the void world before the work of creation began; but the railroad was there to
testify to the presence of man prior to me, and with that before me, I imagine
myself to be the last of the race, who by some strange freak has escaped the
blight that caused the end of the world and had been left alone on the dead
planet, over which I was now coursing in search of a habitable spot. Perhaps
you can picture the cheerfulness of the place that inspired such fancies in my
mind. Imaginings of this sort are the legitimate offspring of the desert. One
finds it hard to picture in the mind what meadows and pastureland and brooks and
trees are like. It is not strange that men go mad in a waste of sand so broad
that to the eye it is as limitless as the sky, so dead that one feels a thrill
of relief at the sight of a lizard or a swooping vulture; the wonder is that
any man can see it and afterward be sane. One or two vultures were all the
flying I saw in this section in all my long, lonely bouncing over the ties.
Lizards and coyotes were more plentiful - the dirty, grayish horned lizard of
the desert - and while it seemed slightly to lessen the weirdness of the place
to see even those forms of life, my feelings of revulsion toward the lizard,
the buzzard, and the coyote augmented by a new touch of contempt for them
because they would live in such a place. Sometimes the mountain ranges to north
and south that enclose the desert were visible, looking in the afternoon, like
a rough edged ribbon of turquoise blue stretched, like a dado, taut against a
leathern sky. More often there was visible only the sand and the dome of the
sky above it, now coppery, greenish, black, gray or mottled blue, but always
sullen, vicious-looking, and never calmly beautiful, for even the skies do not
smile on the face of that void place.
If any of those who read this ever have ridden in one of the bowls made of
slats that are known as cycle whirls, a very fair idea can be formed by them of
what bouncing over railroad ties on a cycle is like unto. I have ridden an
ordinary bicycle in a cycle whirl and know that it is similar in the sensation
it affords to that of cycling over the ties. Before I had traveled half of the
desert I was having trouble with my inner organs, and violent pains in the
region of the kidneys compelled occasional dismounts and rests. In the whole
stretch between Wadsworth and Lovelock's, 63 miles, I was riding the railroad
with the exception of 8 or 10 miles, where I found the sand in the trail alongside
hard enough to be ridden over. My education as a tie-pounder included a little
trick of crossing culverts of which I became quite proud, for it was not easy;
failure would have meant a plunge downward of from 10 to 50 feet. These culverts
are mere cuts in the sand under the railroad, to let the water escape without
washing out the roadbed. Rainstorms in the desert came up in a minute and they
are cloudbursts. The whole country is flooded for an hour and the water races
through these culverts like mountain torrents, water soaks into the sand so
rapidly though, that half an hour after rain has ceased to fall, the drains and
the surrounding country look as if there never had been a shower. I was caught
in these showers a couple of times. The drains under the railroad are 30 to 40
feet wide, and across them is a big beam that runs along-side the iron rails.
The space between the rail and the beam about seven inches. If I had been
riding between the rails I steered the wheels into this space, and by keeping
the outside pedal straight up would skip across without hitting either rail or
beam. If I had been riding outside the rails I rode across the drain margin of
ties projecting outside the beams keeping the inside pedal high.
Sixteen miles east of Brown's I reached Lovelock's and the Forty Mile Desert
had been crossed. I don't know who named it but he had a poor sense of justice
to deprive the desert of any part or due in distance when he gave it the Forty
Mile title. It is 63 miles on the
straight rails from the station at Wadsworth to that at Lovelock's and the
green growth of the town does not encroach upon the 63 miles of desert for more
the 8 or 9 miles. l am speaking by railroad statistics now, for I lost my
cyclometer between Reno and Wadsworth, and could not tell what my mileage was.
This was the second cyclometer, the first having been bounced off the bridge
over the Sacramento. I bought a third one at Lovelock's, but I had learned by
this time to depend upon the timetable of the Southern Pacific for my guide as
to distance and knowledge of where I was. They kept wearing out from handling,
but I got new ones at the stations. Of course, I traveled many miles more than
is covered by the railroad, because of the detours I made on the roads, but on
account of my luck with cyclometers I never will know what my actual mileage
was. In relation to the railroad timetables, they are handy for other
information besides that of locality and distance, and this is the altitude. It
must not be imagined by those unacquainted with the country of the deserts that
because they are spoken of as alkali plains that they lie in a flat lowland.
From Sacramento to Summit I was steadily rising as I have told in a previous
installment of my story, the elevation at Summit being 7,017 feet. From Summit
eastward there is a gradual drop, but the altitude is still high compared with
sea level prairies. At Reno the elevation is 4,497 feet; at Wadsworth it is
4,085 feet; at Upsal, 4,247 feet, and at Lovelock's, 3,977 feet. This may help
to give some idea of the dips and rises of the desert. It is all comparatively
high ground. and I quickly took on the color of a mulatto riding through it.
Lovelock's is much like an oasis, for while the Forty Mile Desert of Nevada
ends there, to the east of it is the Great American Desert of Utah, and
eastward beyond that is again the Red Desert of Wyoming, and I learned that the
worst is not always over when the alkali wastes
of Nevada have been crossed. This oasis of Lovelock's is about 20 miles across,
and there is some excellent farming land on it. It is quite a place, but I
reached it in the middle of the afternoon, and did not stop, except to get some
gasoline and a cyclometer. I pushed on through Lovelock's to Humboldt, 33 miles
beyond for my overnight stop. This made my mileage for the day 96 miles, most
of it over the railroad ties. I want no more such days as that was. For 10
miles out of Lovelock's I managed to follow the road, but then it got too
sandy, and I went back to my old friends the railroad ties and bounced into
Humboldt on them at 6 p.m. Humboldt is a pretty place. You are convinced of
that when you look at the surrounding country, which is desert waste. All there
is of Humboldt is shown in the picture of it that I snapped with my little
Kodak. The house that occupies the foreground, background and sides, and which
surrounds the town, is that of the station agent, telegraph operator, and
keeper of the restaurant for the passengers. the house has a false front, and
it is really a gabled structure, and climbing up the ladder to my room, I
banged my head on the sloping roof. The land immediately about the house has
been cultivated by strenuous attention, and the transplanted trees that grow
before the front door of this town are a source of great pride to the
proprietor. I think it is because of the trees that he charges 50 cents a meal.
The prevailing prices for meals In this country are 25 and 35 cents, the former
price being the most common charge.
The people in that country did not get up early enough to suit me, and I left
Humboldt at 5:40 a.m. without breakfast. I struck sandy going at once, and took
to the everlasting crossties and kept on them nearly all the way to Winnemucca,
45 miles from Humboldt. Seven miles west of Winnemucca I came to a stretch
where I could see the place in the distance, and I left the railroad to take
what I thought to be a shortcut over a trail that runs along an old watercourse,
diverging gradually from the railroad. This is where I made a sad mistake. A
10-mule team could not haul a buggy through the sand there, and after going 3
miles and getting half a mile away from the railroad tracks, I got stuck in the
sand hopelessly. I found that the trail did not lead to Winnemucca anyhow. It
took me an hour to push the bicycle by hand back again to the tracks across the
sand hills. When I wanted to rest, though, the sand was useful, for the bicycle
stood alone, and once I took a snapshot of it while it was thus set in the
sand. This is the place where the automobiles that try to cross the continent
come to grief. If they get to Winnemucca they have a chance of getting through.
In the struggle with the bicycle, I lost my revolver and my wrench through a
hole in my pocket, and I lost an hour looking for them, but I found them in the
sand. I wouldn't have lost that revolver for a great deal. It furnished me with
all the fun I had in my loneliness. I did not have any occasion to draw it in self-defense, but I practiced my marksmanship with it on coyotes - they pronounce it
ki-o-tee out here, with the accent on the first syllable. It is a long .38 that
I carry, and a remarkably good shooter. I could hit a coyote with it at 200
yards, and left several carcasses of them in the desert. There is a bounty paid
for their hides, but I did not have time to skin them and collect the money.
The buzzards - it is against the law to shoot them and I let them alone. In the
greener spots of the country I had shots at rabbits and doves, and I guess I
could have had a bagful of game every day if I had looked for it.
Winnemucca, a cattle town is quite a place. I got some gasoline there, and put
a plug of food in my stomach, which had been without breakfast. At noon I
started for Battle Mountain, 63 miles away. The first 10 miles out I found the
road fairly good, but then I had to take to the tracks again. For about 4 miles
I had the best bit of time between the tracks that I had between the tracks
since I left Frisco. Then I had to walk for 6 miles because the sand lay in
ridges between the ties.
They are laying a new stretch of road along there, and after my walk I came to
a place where I ran the motor at top speed for 10 miles. Then my handlebar
broke while I was going full-tilt, and I had a close call from striking my head
on the rail. I missed it by a few inches. After a walk of a mile I reached a
boxcar camp and got a lineman to help me
improvise a bar out of a piece of hardwood, which we bound on with tarred
twine. I made as good a job of it as possible, for it is a poor country for
bicycle supplies, and I realized that I would not be able to get a pair of new
bars until I got to Ogden, nearly 400 miles beyond. In spite of my troubles I
reached Battle Mountain at 7:15 p.m, having made 109 miles for the day.
Battle Mountain is somewhat of a historic spot, in a bit of fertile farming
land that is about 40 miles across. It is said that they reap more grain and
hay to the acre there than anywhere else in the State. I had been gradually
ascending since leaving Humboldt. Battle
Mountain has an elevation of 4,511 feet. It was near there that there was a
great Mormon massacre. Going out of the town, toward the east, one can see upon
the mountain the cross that marks the "Maiden's Grave." The town
itself is the usual frontier settlement - a store and several saloons. I put up
at the house of a Mrs. Brady, and, to tell the whole truth, I went to bed
thoroughly disgusted with my bargain. I felt as if I was a fool for attempting
to cross the continent on a motor bicycle. I was tired of sand and sagebrush
and railroad ties. My back ached, and I fell asleep feeling as if I did not
care whether I ever reported to the Motorcycle Magazine in New York or not. In
the morning it was different, and I was as determined as ever to finish the task,
and was eager to be off. It is a mighty bilious country, this Nevada of ours,
but they feed you well. Indeed, all through the real West I got better living
for the same money than I did as I worked East. I left the Battle Mountain at 7
a.m., and found hard going. It had rained over night. The mud on the road
blocked the wheels and I went to the railroad. That was just as bad, the
roadbed being of dirt instead of gravel. After a walk of 10 miles, I managed to
drive the motor along slowly. I swore on that stretch that I would not ride a
bicycle through Nevada again for $5,000. The only way to travel there is in an
airship, and then I believe it would somehow give out and strand the vessel. I
made 36 miles in 5 hours and stopped for lunch at Palisade, a telegraph station
in the canyon. I had little more than got started again when I got caught in a
thunderstorm, and in less than a minute I was as wet as if I had fallen in the
river. After the shower the mud was so sticky that I had to stop every 30 yards
and scrape off the wheel in order to let it turn around. A lovely country; yes!
I thought at times I would have to let the motor stay in the mud and hunt up a
wagon to haul it and me to the next place giving an imitation of civilization.
When I was almost ready to give up I struck a stretch of gravel roadbed, and
got a rest for awhile. A little further on I had to walk through the mud again.
I finally got to Carlin at 7 p.m., having made 58 miles after the hardest day of
work I had yet had. I turned a fire hose on the motorcycle at Carlin in order
to soften the mud so that I could wipe it off. This was on May 24, a memorable
day, and I was a week out from Sacramento. Carlin is a division town in a canyon,
Its surveyed elevation is 4,807 feet, but the place is a liberal dispenser of
"Old Scratch" That's what the whiskey is called out there. When the
natives drink plenty of "Old Scratch" the elevation of the town rises
to unsurveyable heights. Like most of the other settlements of the region,
gambling is one of the chief industries.
Wells is a division town of about 200 population, with the biggest hotel I had
seen since leaving Reno. The dining room there for railroad passengers would
have seated the whole population of the place. They feed largely for 50 cents a
meal, and I never left anything on the dishes. Riding over the ties must have
jolted my food down to my boots. I was always empty, and I doubt if any
restaurant made anything on me, even the high priced ones, where they charge 50
cents a meal. Mentioning prices, the highest figure for a meal I saw posted was
75 cents, but this was on a very nicely graduated scale of prices, one
calculated to fit the different sorts of eaters and give satisfaction all around.
This high price was on a board nailed on the outside wall of a dugout at a
section station. The sign read:
Meal.................................................. 25 cents
Square meal........................................ 50 cents
Gorge................................................. 75 cents
I am afraid that if all the restaurants had such a schedule and lived up to it
I would have paid 75 cents apiece for all my meals.
At Wells I had to tighten
up the spokes of the wheels on my motorcycle, as I often did at other places.
Pounding over the ties was a terrible strain on the bicycle. I marveled every
day that it stood it so well. It is well I knew better than to congratulate
myself when over the Forty Mile Desert. That was only a sort of initiation for
me. The Great American Desert, which stretches from Elko, Nevada, to Kelton,
Utah, is nearly 200 miles across, or 5 times as big as the first one. I struck
the alkali sand of the Great American Desert going out of Wells, and for three
miles found a stretch hard enough to ride on. Then I walked for two miles, and
went over the railroad, where I found fair tie-pounding. I was interested in
this part of the desert to find that the picturesque old prairie schooner of
the Forty-niners, who traveled this overland trail, is not extinct. I passed
quite a few of them at different times. Most of them carried parties of farmer
families who were moving from one section of the country to another, and
several were occupied by gypsies, or rovers, as the natives call the Romany
people.
This day, between Wells and Terrace, May 26, 1 had two experiences more
interesting to read about than to pass through. It is rather high altitude
there, the elevation at Wells being 5,628 feet, and at Fenelon, the name of a
side switch without a house near it, 20 miles east, the elevation is 6,154
feet. There was a heavy frost on the ground in the
morning when I left Wells at 6 o'clock, as, indeed, there was nearly every
morning during that week. It was bitter cold, and before I had gone 20 miles my
ears were severely frosted. There was no snow to rub on them though, and I had
to doctor them the best I could with
water first and then lubricating oil. In the afternoon of the same day it grew
very hot, and my ears got badly sunburned, in common with my face. That gives
an idea of the climate of the country. The other experience of the day was not
so painful; it would commonly be
considered a treat; but it was a distinct shock to me because, not being in
condition to use my wits properly, I did not understand. I was about 70 miles
east from Wells, near Tacoma, and riding on the finest stretch of trail that I
had struck in several hundred miles, when I saw coming toward me in the
distance one of the Conestoga wagons drawn by a team of horses with two men
walking along beside the horses. I was somewhat doubtful about the road I was
following, afraid it would lead me too far from the railroad, and I was
delighted to meet with someone who could tell me where the road led. As the
wagon approached it was lost to sight behind a bunch of sagebrush in a turn of
the road. I kept riding toward it, and when I got to the spot there was nothing
there. The desert was all about, devoid of any human being except myself, and
there was no place behind a cliff or any hollow of the land where a team and
wagon could disappear. I was dumb with amazement, and dismounted in a daze,
wondering if the sun had affected my head. My mind could not have been working
clearly, for I never thought of its being a mirage, as I afterward knew it to
be, I was afraid I was losing my mind, and went on silently with a feeling of
dread. The stretch of road was of red gravel, and lasted 10 miles beyond the
mirage. I covered it in 30 minutes. Then it began to rain, and I got back to
the track and rode into Terrace, Utah, at 7:30 p.m. having covered 98 miles
during the day of 13 hours.
Terrace, where I stopped overnight on May 26, is in Utah, and is another
division of some size. It is the biggest eating station on the Southern Pacific
road between San Francisco and Ogden. I crossed the line between Nevada and
Utah when I was about 30 miles out of Welk, and at Terrace was about
three-fourths of the way through the Great American Desert. Around this place I
saw the greatest collection of dugouts and log houses built of railroad ties
that I had yet seen. Such dwellings are common on the outskirts of the division
towns and in the settlements of section hands, but one sees only two or three
at a time ordinarily, while at Terrace there is a swarm of them. For the
dugouts the owners dig cellars about four feet deep and build up, criblike,
four feet above the ground, giving the interior one or two rooms eight feet in
height. Foreigners mostly live in these and the tie houses, which are simply
log shanties made of cross ties, and plastered up with adobe mud. Sometimes
Indians of the blanket variety occupy these dugouts, but more often the
aborigine stragglers from the reservations occupy tepees on the outskirts of
the towns, if these places of a couple of dozen houses can be called towns.
While I saw plenty of Indians on my trip, I did not have any adventures with
them. I did not have time to work up adventures; enough came without seeking;
besides, the Indians I saw are not of the adventurous sort. They are a lazy,
dirty lot that sulk about while their squaws work in the eating houses and
elsewhere to get money for extra tobacco for the bucks. The only time I spoke
to an Indian during my trip was to ask a slouching fellow about a route and I
could not understand his reply enough to derive any satisfaction. So that
settles the Indian matter, for I don't propose to manufacture any dime-novel
incident just for the sake of adding color.
It rained the night I stopped in Terrace, and, starting the next morning at
5:10 o'clock, I had to walk for several miles along the tracks; then I struck
the desert, and found that the rain had left the sand hard enough to make good
riding. It was an uneventful day, and I made 104 miles, the road winding along
the northern shore of the Great Salt Lake, of
which I caught frequent glimpses. I stopped 19 miles west of Ogden because it
began to rain. I put up at a section house, that of the foreman of the gang,
and he gave me a bed for the night. The railroad furnishes these section houses
for the men, and I found them more
comfy than I expected. There were no carpets, but the bed had a springy wire
bottom, a good mattress and fine sheets. The hands do not fare like the
foreman, though: they huddle together a dozen in a house in the other two
buildings that constitute the "place." The place where I stopped is
down on the time table as Zenda, but I was no prisoner there, and there was no
romance to the situation. l am glad the foreman took me in, for a section gang
is a motley lot, a regular cocktail of nationalities, and full of fighting
qualities. At some of the places I passed I saw Chinamen at work on the railroads,
and this was a new thing to me accustomed, as I am, to the pigtails of the
Pacific coast. It is not often that John engages himself in such arduous and un-remunerative
labor. The next morning the ground was so wet that I walked half the way to Ogden.
According to the railroad survey, Ogden, Utah, is 833 miles from San Francisco.
I rode on the railroad track fully half the way. What distance I actually
covered getting there I cannot say with preciseness owing to having lost my
cyclometers, but while there I took a map, and, summing up my detours, I
figured it out that I had ridden very nearly 100 miles more than the distance
by rail, or about 925 miles. At Ogden I
found a pair of new tires and a gallon of lubricating oil waiting for me at the
express office. They came from San Francisco, and the charges on the tires were
$2.75 and on the oil $1.50. I put on one new tire and expressed the other, with
the oil, to myself at Omaha. I got to Ogden at 11a.m., May 28, and spent the
day there. I got a new pair of handlebars and put some new spokes in my wheels.
While there I met up with S.C. Higgins, who has the other motorcycle in that
city of 15,000 inhabitants. I met him at the store of L.H. Becraft - the pioneer
cyclist of Ogden and the proprietor of a large bicycle store there. I spent the
evening with Mr. Higgins and slept at his house, in response to a pressing
invitation.
Return to the George A. Wyman Memorial Project page.
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